Another oft-dismissed fabric, tulle, is part of a larger movement in fashion toward bigger layers and soft volume. With significant exceptions--Christian Dior’s New Look and the Christian Lacroix pouf in the ‘80s among them--fashion is often about the draper’s art. Bias cut, fitted to the body, sleek and sexy, these have been key fashion themes for decades. But over the past several seasons soft, light layers of chiffon, tulle and even featherweight knits have shown up with increasing frequency on the runway. In some cases there’s a overlap with another trend, ruffles, in that these lightweight, translucent fabrics add volume and movement to what would otherwise be straightforward shifts and sheath dresses. Think ballgown panels and petticoats of tulle, netting, lace peeking thru bottom valance hems.
This Poiret Collar could translate into a tieback or fabulous header
Sex in the City SJP- wears light layers that are reminiscent of bishop sleeves.
My Fav!!!- I translated this into a panel with red taffeta rose header for our Runway to Window seminar.
Structured Ruffles
The third ultra-feminine look to be reinvented on the runway has to be ruffles. While the Light Layering trend uses ruffles in a fairly traditional manner, although in softer fabrics, designers working with Structured Ruffles have taken a sculptural, textural approach. Ruffles are worked in patent leather or stiffened suede, freezing the movement in place; or broad ribbons of fabric are worked into pleated, minimalist rows.
These approaches, taken by Marni, Fendi, Giambattista Valli and perhaps most influentially by Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, reconstruct the ruffle as something more sophisticated, more interesting and more intriguing than the word initially connotes.
The third ultra-feminine look to be reinvented on the runway has to be ruffles. While the Light Layering trend uses ruffles in a fairly traditional manner, although in softer fabrics, designers working with Structured Ruffles have taken a sculptural, textural approach. Ruffles are worked in patent leather or stiffened suede, freezing the movement in place; or broad ribbons of fabric are worked into pleated, minimalist rows.
These approaches, taken by Marni, Fendi, Giambattista Valli and perhaps most influentially by Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, reconstruct the ruffle as something more sophisticated, more interesting and more intriguing than the word initially connotes.
Modern Volume
This last trend is the most recent and, in a sense, the most radical. It’s about reshaping the familiar in unlikely ways, and it may take our eye a while a to adjust. It ranges from the recent re-introduction of peplums and volume at the waist, to apparently rigidly structured looks that are surprisingly soft, to the use of stiffer fabrics that fall the large cones rather than soft folds. Dynasty-era big shoulders are re-invented, skirts flair and pouf in odd angles and shapes, fabrics billow and gather in deep folds. The trend toward wider-leg, 1940s style trousers with a higher waist is the most familiar iteration of this look, a complete reshaping of the mid-to-late ‘90s ultra low waistline/bootcut pairing, but designers such as Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Alexander McQueen are among the leaders in rethinking the shape of things to come.
This last trend is the most recent and, in a sense, the most radical. It’s about reshaping the familiar in unlikely ways, and it may take our eye a while a to adjust. It ranges from the recent re-introduction of peplums and volume at the waist, to apparently rigidly structured looks that are surprisingly soft, to the use of stiffer fabrics that fall the large cones rather than soft folds. Dynasty-era big shoulders are re-invented, skirts flair and pouf in odd angles and shapes, fabrics billow and gather in deep folds. The trend toward wider-leg, 1940s style trousers with a higher waist is the most familiar iteration of this look, a complete reshaping of the mid-to-late ‘90s ultra low waistline/bootcut pairing, but designers such as Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Alexander McQueen are among the leaders in rethinking the shape of things to come.
Nothing but a over scaled Inverted Box pleat
Love the cut and band - What a fabulous panel!
Who says you can't get inspiration from the runway?!
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